Selected plates

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Author
HEIDELHOFF, Nikolaus Wilhelm von.
Title
Gallery of Fashion. Vol. I, April 1794-March 1795.
Published
[London]: Pub by N. Heideloff, 1794-1795
Description
FIRST EDITION. Quarto (11 3/8" x 9 1/4" ; 289 x 235 mm.). [54] pp. Hand-coloured engraved title and twenty-four hand-coloured engraved plates depicting forty-six figures of fashionably dressed ladies. Each plate with descriptive text. Contemporary limp red roan. Covers with single gilt fillet, upper board lettered in gilt, smooth spine ruled in gilt. All edges gilt. Early ink signature on verso of front free endpaper. Spine extremities and corners expertly and almost invisibly restored. Otherwise a fine copy. Only 167 copies were subscribed to for this first volume in 1794 including the Princess Royal the Princess Augusta the Princess Elizabeth the Duke of York and the Empress of Germany" (Holland p. 48). "The most splendid of English costume books and the first real venture in this country of a periodical devoted to the changing taste in dress". Volume IX is notoriously rare. No artist's or engraver's names are given but the plates are probably the work of the publisher Nikolaus Wilhelm von Heideloff (1761-1839). "After April 1802 (Volume IX) the name of Heideloff ceases to appear in the imprint. Many plates also after that month are undated and the magazine seems to have passed into other and less competent hands" (Abbey Life). "After the Gallerie des Modes came to an end in 1787 there was a gap in the production of really fine costume-plates until 1794 when Nicolaus Wilhelm von Heideloff appears on the scene. Heideloff was born in Stuttgart in 1761 and was brought up to be an engraver. In the 1780's he migrated to Paris where he lived by painting miniatures until the outbreak of the French Revolution dispersed his client base.

Coloured plates in order:

Month of April, 1794.

1. Title page.
2. Figs 1-2. Head-dresses.
3. Figs 3-4. Head-dresses.

Month of May, 1794.

4. Fig 5. Head-dress. Fig 6. Head-dress a la Turque.
5. Figs 7-8-9. Head-dresses.

Month of June, 1794.

6. Figs 10-11-12. Morning Dresses.
7. Figs 13-14. Head-dresses.

Month of July, 1794.

8. Fig 15. Head-dress.
9. Figs 16-17-18. Morning Dresses.

Month of August, 1794.

10. Fig 19. A Lady in mourning. Fig 20. A Lady in half mourning.
11. Figs 21-22. Two Ladies, en neglige, taking an airing in a phaeton.

Month of September, 1794.

12. Figs 23-24. Morning Dresses.
13. Fig 25. [Not captioned]

Month of October, 1794.

14. Fig 26. Afternoon, or half dress.
15. Figs 27-28. Head-dresses.

Month of November, 1794.

16. Figs 29-30. Two Ladies in their dressing-room.
17. Fig 31. Afternoon dress, on half mourning.

Month of December, 1794.

18. Figs 32-33. Morning Dresses.
19. Figs 34-35. Evening Dresses.

Month of January, 1795.

20. Fig 36. Morning Dress.
21. Figs 37-38-39. Afternoon Dresses.

Month of February, 1795.

22. Figs 40-41-42. Evening Dresses.
23. Fig 43. Court Dress.

Month of March, 1795.

24. Fig 44. Evening Dress.
25. Figs 45-46. Morning Dresses.
References
Abbey Life 218; Colas 1170; Hiler p. 351; Lipperheide 4578; Tooley 258; Bobins III 862.
Hand coloured plates
25
Binding/Size
M=4to
Category
18th Century & earlier, British Isles, Costume
Value
$5,001-25,000
Stock ID
666